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| Shyam- Rai |
When I was packing my bags for heading to Bishnupur, I was
skeptical as to whether it was a right decision to slog in the autumn heat in
the heart of Bengal . Some hill station would
have been a natural choice. But prodded by my friends who insisted on salvaging
their little knowledge of the history, I was sort of quasi-convinced that the
trip won’t be a disaster. I was wrong, terribly wrong. I came back as a person
who was better aware of the history of the soil he lives in.
2885 Up Aranyak Express took us to Bishnupur from Shalimar,
a small terminus 5 kms away from Howrah
and is easily accessed from Kolkata by cabs across the Vidyasagar Setu. One can
board the same train at Santragachhi which is on S.E.Railway main line and
accessible by road through the same Vidyasagar Setu. Else you can board the 2883 - Rupashi Bangla
Express which starts at 0600 hrs from Howrah
and reaches Bishnupur(200km away) by 10 AM
The distance on road is much shorter, only 150 Km. CSTC busses are
available from Esplanade in the morning. It will take about four and half hours and even less, if you
drive in your own car.
We headed for the tourist lodge to freshen up. Had our lunch
and booked a rickshaw, the main mode of transport, for sight seeing.
Fortunately he was a part-time guide too who went on with his commentary as he
pedaled from one spot to another.
Bishnupur became the capital of the Malla dynasty in 994AD
when King Jagat Malla shifted to it from Pradamnapur, where the first ruler of
the dynasty Raghunath was crowned in 695AD.
But it boomed to its peak, centuries later, during King Veer Hambir. It
was said that he was a ruthless ruler who plundered the wealth of all those who
traversed his territory, came across in his looting spree Srinivasa Acharya, a
beloved disciple of Shri Chaitanya and a Vaishnava scholar of Chaitanya cult.
He became his disciple in Acharya’s influence and became a Vaishnava. To atone for the sins, he in built the
wonderfully designed “Rash Mancha”
which is a unique combination of Bengal ’s
Chala (roof of a hut) and Egyptian pyramid structure. The façade of this 51
feet high and 80 feet long covered pulpit is poetry on burnt laterite. Every
year “Rash Leela” is held over here
from ages. Since stones are unavailable in this part of Bengal ,
the temples were built on burnt laterite(red-clay), rich in iron content. Soon
he built another temple called Dalan
Mandir for Mrinmayee which was
the royal deity. One has to buy a ticket of Rs.5/- from the Archeological
Survey of India counter at Raash Mancha
to visit the temples.
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| Raash mancha |
The temples in Bishnupur are named according to the number
of miniaturized pinnacled shrines atop the main chala (mainly a curved cornice roof upon a rectangular structure,
resembling the thatched roof of hut) of the sanctum. These are called RATNAs, e.g. Ek(one) Ratna, Dwi (Two) Ratna, Pancha( five) Ratna etc. Veer
Hambir’s successor King Raghunath Singh built the some exquisite temples in his
tenure. He built Malleswar Mandir in
memoir of his predecessor (Veer Singha), Kalachand
temple (1656AD) and Shyama Rai or
Kesta Rai in mid seventeenth century,
a pancha ratna temple in the
name of
Lord Krishna. This has porches on four sides and three arch entrances, which
reminds us of Islamic architecture. One cannot be but dumbfounded seeing its
terracotta designs and filigree engravings upon the burnt bricks all through.
Close to it is Jore Bangla (joint
house), built by the same king. Radhe
Shyam, Lalji (Ek Ratna) Krishna Balaram, Nikunja Bihari and temples built by different kings of this
dynasty. The temples, in general, have molded burnt and designed clay panels
fixed on clay brick structures.
The Radhe Shyam
temple was built in later part of the Malla dynasty and is exquisite example of
terracotta and stucco. Along with Keshta
Rai this temple is one of the finest examples of resplendent terracotta
architecture. Madanmohon temple is another creation of the Malla dynasty built by
King Durjan Singh in 1694 AD. The Ek Ratna styled edifice is intricately
designed pillars depicting 64 dance poses makes one awestruck. This is arguably
the best known temple
of Bishnupur
The remnant of a fortress can hardly be seen but its
existence is proclaimed by Pathar Durwaza-
a fine arched gate way built with dressed laterite blocks. King Veer Singha built
it in the second half of the seventeenth century. It has double storied
galleries. The central passage is flanked by spaces which could accommodate
troupes. The sides have arrow slits for the archers and the snipers who acted
as the first line of defense.
From temples we can now move to Dolmadol, a huge cannon
which lies in open air for centuries without rusting. The engravings upon the
body of the cannon are interesting. Brute force lies cheek by jowl astute art
forms. Using this cannon Raja Gopal Singh used it to drive away the Bargis
(Maratha Warriors).
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| Dolmadol |
Bishnupur’s contribution to music is no less intriguing. It
has contributed the famous “Bishnupuri Gharana” to Hindustani classical music. It
had started during King Raghunath Singh Dev and is still continuing with great
élan.
The craftsman of pottery, jewellary, crockery, metal wares
and weavers are passing the baton of a rich heritage replete with finesse.
Baluchari and Tussar sarees made of finest silks are manufactured here. A long
neck horse popularly known as “Bankura” horse is also a popular memento in
demand. Chhau Dance is one of the
traditional arts that still thrive in Bishnupur.
In December end Poush
Mela is held in the precincts of Madanmohan temple and the week long
festivity and cultural programmes make Bishnupur a attractive destination for
the tourists. In August, an unique ritual of Jhapan is held when the snake charmers exhibit their tricks with poisonous
snakes to appease Ma Monosha, the
goddess of snakes in Bengal .
One can also visit Mukutmanipur, a reservoir on river
Kangashabati, 82 Kms away. Its serenity around along with the hilly landscape
makes it worth visiting. Staying at Peerless Resort there is another experience
to relish.
( Pix : courtsey- http://chhottoprithibi.blogspot.in & http://www.indiamike.com/ )
Hotels in Bishnupur:
Bishnupur Lodge run by W.B. Tourism – 03244-252013; Hotel
Bishnupur-03244-252243, Hollywood Hotel & Resorts, etc
