The
russet of the sky weaned away, leaving its space to the darkness. The sunset
was sudden in the distant hills, when we got down at Lava. Just as we settled
in our cottage, darkness knocked at our window panes. Along with it came the
chill. As we set ourselves on the dining table at the Rachela (another one is
the Nathula) forest canteen in the Lava resort, it certainly started shacking.
Instinctively, I looked down. I saw my mother was trying hard to control her
trembling legs. So ominous was the chill, it cut through her bone and sinew.
Lava,
a small town at the entrance of the Neora
Valley National
Park, has become a tourist attraction for quite
some time now along with two neighbouring villages-Rishop and Lolegaon. Here metaled roads play hide and seek with pine forest. Ferns and mosses are strewn
around like banned plastic bags in the city. At 2100 meters above sea levels,
this place is converse of the bustle of the twin illustrious cities in its
vicinity – Kalimpong and Darjeeling. But the view of Kanchanjanga is no less
arresting here. If fog doesn’t play a spoil sport, you are in for a treat from
the resort (Nature and Wilderness Tourist Complex of West Bengal Forest
Development Corporation) itself. Otherwise you can trek up to Tiffindara early
in the morning to enjoy the sunrise.
There
are many types of cottages here with different names like Hill Myna, Gorkha,
Dupka, Lepcha etc. Log cottages are also available here. It’s always better to
book the range facing cottages like Gorkha 3 & 4 or Dupka 1 & 2.
The
first evening was for acclimatization. Napoleon brandy came handy. In our log
huts tugged inside our blankets, the warmth of the beverage spread over our
skin which only hours ago, was perspiring in the October heat of the planes.
The
sound the cricket sneaked in from the window sill. Soon, exhaustion got the
better of us. The four and half our long drive up the hills plus the overnight
train journey took its toll. Within minutes we were like logs inside the log
hut.
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| Lava Monastery |
“La”
is the Bhutanese for the Lord and “Va” is presence. Ratnarishi Gumpha is where
He is present at Lava. We walked from our resort to the market and then headed
for this Lava Monastery, which was set up by the Third Kongtrul Rimpoche
(Tibetian Bhuddist Lama). The brick read Viharas have roof top painted in jaded
yellow. The inside is no different from other Gumphas at least in the eyes of a
commoner like me. Lord Buddha is encased in a glass casing atop a dais. A
series of giant prayer wheels and concrete bell like structures stood
graciously beside the main building.
The
Natural Interpretation Center in the vicinity gives a glimpse of the flora and
fauna of the adjoining Neora Valley. We came out a bit more aware of the
wildlife. After lunch we hired car for a trip to Changey Falls 10 km from Lava.
For the three hour engagement we had to sell out a thousand bucks but it was
worth it. The 50 meter high Changey drops gracefully and as we saw it from a
metal bridge lying across the road. Lampokhari Lake, locally known as Aritar Lake
is also an added attraction in the vicinity of Changey.
Next
day the plan of an early morning stint to the sunrise point at Tiffindara had
to be aborted as thick fog hovered around. Instead, after breakfast we headed
for our next destination- Rishop. The 4 Km trek amid the mountain and woods is
more enjoyable than the 12 km arduous journey on wheels as most of the road is
in shambles. It’s not steep so anyone who can walk on the planes can take up
this trek. We took the hilly trail above the metaled road and entered into the
coniferous forest. Birch, Pine and Oak lay chick bye jowl. Their canopies
miserly allowing flickers of sun-rays. The perennial damp undergrowth is a haven
for leeches. So be careful as you trod. Crickets here sing never ending chorus.
Often you see a dog on the trail escorting you if your guide has gone way
ahead. There’s a Baretto lane (much to the glee of the Kolkata football fans)
on the verge of the entering Rishop. Rhododendrons of myriad colours welcome
you from the makeshift (actually benches) balconies of the cottages. Cute girls
swathed in woolens smile at you. Their unpretentious parents acknowledge
smilingly if you greet their words with toffees. Sometimes you can come across
a lama clad in a brick red attire waving passed you. The snob of the city is
still unknown here. But for how long?
Rishop
gives 3000 view of Kanchenjunga. If you are a city buff avoid
Rishop. Here solitude lies by your side just as your pet. Peace as if has found
at eternal abode in this hamlet.
We
hired a car for Lolegaon, another tourist spot nearly 30 Km away. Cloud wrapped
the road intermittently and wipes it from visibility. The tall trees on both
sides with thick undergrowth of ferns follow you although. We stopped on
en-route to see the Samabeon Tea Estate in the valley below. Green step
plantation dotted with colourful cottages is a visual treat. I saw a few
tourists stretching their legs. We, on the other hand sat on the rocks enjoying
our cuppa. Half an hour later we were again on our way to Lolegaon.
Lolegaon
is locally called Kaffer. We stayed at the Dafey Munal Tourist Lodge of
Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council. WBFDC has beautiful cottages (namely Hornbill,
Orchid, Berch etc) with rents varying between 600 to 1700 Rupees.
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| Hanging Wooden Bridge |
The main
attraction over here is the Canopy Walk in the heritage forest. Negotiating a
hanging wooden footbridge between the two old Oak trees is an adventure not to
be missed. You will be lost in wilderness, enjoying the flora, the orchids and
the overall verdant greenery. Here solitude has a voice. Silence here speaks if
you are not gaggled by upstart tourists.
In
the evening, we invited the Lepcha cook who had a guitar. We lit a fire on the
garden overlooking the Ralli Valley in front of the Lodge and started a
campfire. Nylon strings accompanied Nepali, Hindi and Bengali songs in tandem.
Suddenly, Lolegaon’s chill vanished. The warmth of oneness set in.
 |
| A hilly track in Lolaygaon |
Again
early morning fog forced us to abort our venture at Jhandi Dara Sunrise
Point. After breakfast we headed for NJP
Station, via Kalimpong, leaving the century old moss clad oak and cedars, the
rustle of dead leaves on the hilly mud topped path. I made it a point to come
back once again at this part of the world to savour the sunrise from any of the
sunrise point that we missed.
Pics : Courtesy Chandranath Mukherjee
Text : Discover India
