Taki – Weekend escape

Vijaya Dasami at Taki

I landed in Taki in the monsoon month of July just to savour nature’s cache of green and enjoy the spillover of river Ichamati that divides India and Bangladesh. A van-rickshaw took us from the station to the Nipendra Atithisala, a guesthouse of Taki Municipality.

The strand

Just a cup of tea boosted us up and we headed for the river side. A watch tower stands on the strand which has a row of chairs where the visitors can sit and enjoy the river view. We sat there as the sun went behind the veil of the cloud. On the opposite bank lay the Bangladeshi villages of Bhatsala, Sakhipur, Sripur etc, which had been cut off from India by an imaginary line somewhere in between the river, a line that Sir Cyril Radcliffe drew decades ago on a map; the line that disappears during the Vijaya Dasami, when idols from both sides are taken in boats into the middle of the river for immersion. The last traces of solitude are wiped off in the festive fervor as thousands throng both the banks to watch the immersion and see the exchange of brotherly love between the two peoples having the same mother tongue.

Golpatar Jongol

In the late afternoon we went to Jalalpur to visit Golpatar Jongol – a mini Sundarban - where a mangrove forest lays in the bank of the river and an elevated concrete road meanders through it for a walk into the woods. Somnath Mukherjee, the Chairman of the Taki municipality, said that that he is planning to make a Deer Park over there. On our way back we saw the Eco Tourism Park which is on its way to completion. It has a 7 bigha water body where a mini zoo is planned. A guest house of 5 suits is also planned there. An old zamindar house of Late Harendra Nath Roychowdhury ( Ex Education Minister) is two minutes from our Guest House. Another must visit project, the first of its kind in Eastern India, is Iswar Swarajit Dalal Water Purified Center at Hasnabad where 7000 liters of river water is purified and bottled daily. Sadly, the beautiful Machranga Island has been taken over by the brick kiln owners and has lost is sheen. Re beautification is on the cards once election is over, said the Chairman.

On our way back I heard that Taki is the place where the great scientist Prof Prafulla Chandra Ray used to disembark from boat on his way to Calcutta from his native place at Khulna, now in Bangladesh. Lastly, don’t forget to visit Dayamayee Mistanna Bhandar for Chhanar Malpo, a sweet famous in Taki.

Navigator:  By ‘Kolkata – Hasnabad’ bus from Esplanade. By car (80 Kms) through the Basanti Highway. By train on Sealdah – Hasnabad route, get down at Taki station, time 2 &1/2 hours.

Place of stay: Nripendra Atithisala ( Taki municipality guest House ) Ph-03217-233323-4/ 9331026585

Text: Amitava Chakrabarty
Pics : Swadesh Bhattacharya 
Courtsey : Discover India

LAVA, LOLEYGAON, RISHOP & NEORA VALLEY

The russet of the sky weaned away, leaving its space to the darkness. The sunset was sudden in the distant hills, when we got down at Lava. Just as we settled in our cottage, darkness knocked at our window panes. Along with it came the chill. As we set ourselves on the dining table at the Rachela (another one is the Nathula) forest canteen in the Lava resort, it certainly started shacking. Instinctively, I looked down. I saw my mother was trying hard to control her trembling legs. So ominous was the chill, it cut through her bone and sinew. 

Lava, a small town at the entrance of the Neora Valley National Park, has become a tourist attraction for quite some time now along with two neighbouring villages-Rishop and Lolegaon. Here metaled roads play hide and seek with pine forest. Ferns and mosses are strewn around like banned plastic bags in the city. At 2100 meters above sea levels, this place is converse of the bustle of the twin illustrious cities in its vicinity – Kalimpong and Darjeeling. But the view of Kanchanjanga is no less arresting here. If fog doesn’t play a spoil sport, you are in for a treat from the resort (Nature and Wilderness Tourist Complex of West Bengal Forest Development Corporation) itself. Otherwise you can trek up to Tiffindara early in the morning to enjoy the sunrise.

There are many types of cottages here with different names like Hill Myna, Gorkha, Dupka, Lepcha etc. Log cottages are also available here. It’s always better to book the range facing cottages like Gorkha 3 & 4 or Dupka 1 & 2.

The first evening was for acclimatization. Napoleon brandy came handy. In our log huts tugged inside our blankets, the warmth of the beverage spread over our skin which only hours ago, was perspiring in the October heat of the planes.

The sound the cricket sneaked in from the window sill. Soon, exhaustion got the better of us. The four and half our long drive up the hills plus the overnight train journey took its toll. Within minutes we were like logs inside the log hut.

 

Lava Monastery

“La” is the Bhutanese for the Lord and “Va” is presence. Ratnarishi Gumpha is where He is present at Lava. We walked from our resort to the market and then headed for this Lava Monastery, which was set up by the Third Kongtrul Rimpoche (Tibetian Bhuddist Lama). The brick read Viharas have roof top painted in jaded yellow. The inside is no different from other Gumphas at least in the eyes of a commoner like me. Lord Buddha is encased in a glass casing atop a dais. A series of giant prayer wheels and concrete bell like structures stood graciously beside the main building.

The Natural Interpretation Center in the vicinity gives a glimpse of the flora and fauna of the adjoining Neora Valley. We came out a bit more aware of the wildlife. After lunch we hired car for a trip to Changey Falls 10 km from Lava. For the three hour engagement we had to sell out a thousand bucks but it was worth it. The 50 meter high Changey drops gracefully and as we saw it from a metal bridge lying across the road. Lampokhari Lake, locally known as Aritar Lake is also an added attraction in the vicinity of Changey.

Next day the plan of an early morning stint to the sunrise point at Tiffindara had to be aborted as thick fog hovered around. Instead, after breakfast we headed for our next destination- Rishop. The 4 Km trek amid the mountain and woods is more enjoyable than the 12 km arduous journey on wheels as most of the road is in shambles. It’s not steep so anyone who can walk on the planes can take up this trek. We took the hilly trail above the metaled road and entered into the coniferous forest. Birch, Pine and Oak lay chick bye jowl. Their canopies miserly allowing flickers of sun-rays. The perennial damp undergrowth is a haven for leeches. So be careful as you trod. Crickets here sing never ending chorus. Often you see a dog on the trail escorting you if your guide has gone way ahead. There’s a Baretto lane (much to the glee of the Kolkata football fans) on the verge of the entering Rishop. Rhododendrons of myriad colours welcome you from the makeshift (actually benches) balconies of the cottages. Cute girls swathed in woolens smile at you. Their unpretentious parents acknowledge smilingly if you greet their words with toffees. Sometimes you can come across a lama clad in a brick red attire waving passed you. The snob of the city is still unknown here. But for how long?

Rishop gives 300⁰ view of Kanchenjunga. If you are a city buff avoid Rishop. Here solitude lies by your side just as your pet. Peace as if has found at eternal abode in this hamlet.

We hired a car for Lolegaon, another tourist spot nearly 30 Km away. Cloud wrapped the road intermittently and wipes it from visibility. The tall trees on both sides with thick undergrowth of ferns follow you although. We stopped on en-route to see the Samabeon Tea Estate in the valley below. Green step plantation dotted with colourful cottages is a visual treat. I saw a few tourists stretching their legs. We, on the other hand sat on the rocks enjoying our cuppa. Half an hour later we were again on our way to Lolegaon.

Lolegaon is locally called Kaffer. We stayed at the Dafey Munal Tourist Lodge of Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council. WBFDC has beautiful cottages (namely Hornbill, Orchid, Berch etc) with rents varying between 600 to 1700 Rupees. 

Hanging Wooden Bridge

The main attraction over here is the Canopy Walk in the heritage forest. Negotiating a hanging wooden footbridge between the two old Oak trees is an adventure not to be missed. You will be lost in wilderness, enjoying the flora, the orchids and the overall verdant greenery. Here solitude has a voice. Silence here speaks if you are not gaggled by upstart tourists.

In the evening, we invited the Lepcha cook who had a guitar. We lit a fire on the garden overlooking the Ralli Valley in front of the Lodge and started a campfire. Nylon strings accompanied Nepali, Hindi and Bengali songs in tandem. Suddenly, Lolegaon’s chill vanished. The warmth of oneness set in. 

 

A hilly track in Lolaygaon

Again early morning fog forced us to abort our venture at Jhandi Dara Sunrise Point.  After breakfast we headed for NJP Station, via Kalimpong, leaving the century old moss clad oak and cedars, the rustle of dead leaves on the hilly mud topped path. I made it a point to come back once again at this part of the world to savour the sunrise from any of the sunrise point that we missed.

Pics : Courtesy Chandranath Mukherjee

Text : Discover India 

A Few Days In Dooars

I saw a speck of red moving randomly inside the woods.  Focusing, I discovered a man clad in a carmine red shirt squatting, getting up and searching some thing down the roots. My urban curiousness felt that some adventure was in the offing. Finally, it subsided when the dark tanned man emerged with a handful of mushroom from the forest.

‘Collecting Mushrooms in this early hour?’ I quizzed.

“Yes sir! These will make a slippery soup which helps some more rice through the gullet,” the man quipped.

He was “Ghora” an elderly Rava, a tribe brought by the British to this part of North Bengal from Chottanagpur as labours in tea plantation. Quickly I befriended him, walked 2.5 miles taking the soft morning sun at my shoulders, cutting through the lush green tea plantation where his son and daughter in law works as daily labours for just Rs. 65 a day.

 I was visiting Dooars and have checked in at the “Tiyabon Resort” at Chalsa in

Tiyabon

Jalpaijuri district. We reached his hamlet – Mangalbari. A church stood at the corner of a field at the entrance.  It has taken the entire clan in its parochial ambit. Each thatched roof huts of the labours supported creepers of bottle gourd; each has a few sq yards of kitchen garden in the front where vegetables grow, and a place at the backyard to brew handia-a local rice beer. Luckily, I was offered salted liquor tea in glass instead of the tipple. The entire family posed for shots as my camera went into action and they did so for the first time in their life when I promised then the prints.

At Dooars, your eyes will be soothed in luxuriant shades of green. Far from the chaotic buzz of the city, your ears absorb the unheard sounds of silence. The croons of exotic birds, their fluttering in the blue crystal clear background, the ramblings of the snow fed rivers originating in the lap of Himalayas each kisses your eardrums with their uniqueness. Top this up with jungles with their impenetrable façade of woods and weeds and Doors will emerge an unavoidable destination of a solace seeking mind.

Jaldhaka Tourist Lodge

We started with Bindu, a remote village in the Bhutan border where the Jaldhaka River acts as a dividing line. The journey through the Chalsa-Jhalong route is adventurous. Herds of elephant or a wild boar can block your route while crossing the Chapramari Forest.  The Jaldhaka River is seen down below once you go up the Kalimpong hills, opening an exquisite vale with cottages amid shades of green. You can stay here at Jaldhaka Tourist lodge (room route Rs.1200), maintained by West Bengal Forest Development Corporation (WBFDCL- Ph 033-22348321).  This place is famous for the Hydro-electric project. Water gushing out of the sluice gates can lure you towards it but is best avoided.

Banani

We shifted to “Banani” resort of the WBFDCL built on the banks of Murti River.  This resort is the entry point of Gorumara forest, another feather in Dooars’ cap.  Permission to enter the forest along with cars or elephant for Jungle safari is arranged from this government lodge.  Forest Interpretation Centre at Lataguri gives the permit.  Jungle Safari starts early in the morning. If one wishes to take the ride, the manger of lodge can make arrangements if asked in the evening before. From the different watchtowers ( Jatraprasad, khunia, chukchuki etc) one can see a plethora of fauna.

In the wee hours of the morning exploring the dense dark forest with a local guide to whisper you about the animals that he finds and directs your attention is an experience in itself. If you are lucky you can have a glimpse of wild elephants, single horned rhinos, Indian Gours, Bisons etc. The 80 sq km forest is cut across by Jaldhaka, Murti and Bamni rivers. You will have to take a car from the registered locals- often a Maruti gypsy.  The Omnis much to the rancour of the local drivers have been forcibly replaced by the polluting old gypsies by the local government.

Murti River

In the afternoon we headed for Chapramani forest, north of Gorumara.  But if you are lucky enough to see the wild animals at Gorumara you can easily skip Chapramari. It is important to note that forests remain closed from 15^th June to 15^th September. Room rent at Banani ranges between Rs.900 to Rs.1760.

One can make a trip to Samsing 15km away from Chalsa or go upto Santaleykhola (4  km) and stay at individual cottages of the eco tourist centre of WBFDCL. At Samsing, birdwatchers can have a field day with their binoculars and enjoy the avian variety of hornbills, drangos, thrushes, peacocks etc.

Next day we headed for Hashimara by a passenger train and checked in “Malangi Lodge” at Barodabri. One can stay at Jaldapara Tourist Lodge at Madarihat. Cars are also available from Chalsa or Murti. Our intension was to enjoy the elephant Safari at Jaldapara Wild Life Sanctuary. The manager made the arrangements here too. The priority of the ride, however, goes to those staying at “Holong” bungalow (booked from WB Tourism Department 033-22485917/ 8271) inside Jaldapara forest. Wild animals come in the opposite field to lick salt from the man made pits. A stream divides the bungalow and the field.

Holong Bungalow

It is from here we saw a host of peacocks, hornbill and Sambar deer. While coming to Holong a wild pig rammed our car before crossing the road. Another one narrowly missed us. It was 5am. The incident shoved the remaining traces of sleep that we had for waking up early.

Madhumala's Silhouette 

Moments later we sat atop Madhumala, one of the tamed (Kunki) elephants of the forest department.” Mile ! Mile!” The mahut shouted kicking her gently and she started her journey into the dense forest. While crossing the stream, she stopped momentarily sloshing in water for the journey. Then cutting across the dense jungle she along with six other elephants trudged in to explore. We came in a open space where the morning sun was kissing the grassland out of slumber. The tall catkin (kash) flowers were moving slowly. Strangely there was no breeze. The mohut took us near it. 

The Charging Rhino @ Jaldapara

Suddenly a one horned Rhino charged towards us. Shocked by its intent we all screamed. Luckily another elephant followed us. Seeing two in tandem, it stopped the charge, posed for a second and then ran off. 

I was not lucky enough to see the python or the bison, but the Rhino made our day. We visited Chilapata forest next. It was close by. But the silence was haunting. En route we saw watch towers in paddy fields to guard crops from the wild elephants. We saw another Rhino crossing the river from the watch tower. A crane was taking a free ride upon it. The duo’s silhouette upon the russet river, shimmering in the sunset was an enchanting site. The driver stopped in front of a tree to show us a tree which oozes red sap if its bark is peeled.

At Chilapata

One can also visit Phuntsholing, the gate way city to Bhutan and see the Crocodile Park and the Gumpha atop a hill. The meandering Torsha, aka -Amo Chu, locally, flows leisurely by the city and a treat to watch from here.

Kharbandi gumpha @ phuntsholling

Bidding adieu to the river fed enchantment of natural forests we boarded the Kanchankanya Express at Hashimara, the next day, heading for the concrete jungle of the city. Oh yes! The photos of Ghora were sent and by the time you read this story they are displayed on his shelf.



For bookings :

West Bengal forest Development Corporation Limited
6A, Raja Subodh Mullick Square, 7th - Floor, Kolkata-700013 
Ph No. : 033-2237-0060/ 2237-0061/2225-8549

Text Courtesy : Discover India; Pics: Author

Amarnath Yatra 2012, a memoir.

The evening before the Climb at Pahelgam

As I stood on the footbridge above the rumbling river Lidder at Pahelgam with the sun lost beyond the mountains and its orange remnant on the sky, I thought whether I will be able to finish it.

The monotony of the flowing river was intermittently broken by the Choppers- one on their last sorties of the day to Panjtarani with pilgrims on board. Collecting a few nitty -gritty from the nearby market we headed for the hotel. We knew this night’s sleep will be the last one in next few days where we will have room heaters, a cozy bed and clean blankets to invite sleep into our eyes. We were already tired by the day’s journey from Jammu to here, at Pahelgam. So, we called it a day.

Amarnath Yatra – the pilgrimage of ice- as it is often called. Years back, a Muslim Shepard chanced upon a cave deep in the mountains where he saw an ice stalagmite, naturally formed. Later this ‘Shivling’ came to be known as Amarnath. From time immemorial, pilgrims from all casts and creeds throng the ice cave to pay obeisance to the Almighty. Interestingly, the descendants of this Muslim shepherd are still the main priest of Amarnathji.

Chandanwari

From Pahelgam we hired a car. The beautiful Betaab valley lay on our right while the stiff mountain wall stood erect on our left. The early morning nip in the air was refreshing. Lidder cut through the pine and deodar valley. The pristine visage was an early morning treat to eyes. The 16 km journey, thus, ended in a whisker.

 At Chandanwari (9500 ft) we entered the iron gates showing our Yatra permit issued by the Shrine Board. The permit can be acquired from any of the 121 J&K Branches, 49 Yes Bank branches and 100 Odd post office located at various states across the country. The form of the application can be downloaded from the Shrine Board website – www. Shriamarnathji.com. A fitness certificate from a registered medical practitioner is essential for this Yatra.

“Jay Bhole! Chaye pijie Bhole!” hailed a man after we took a few steps up. Just as we crossed the gate we saw a host of langars – free food camps-where the volunteers were in tough competitions to woo the pilgrims into their make-shift camps to serve hot vegetarian food, free. A holy attempt, you can say, to wash of their sins gathered at the material world below. The jazzed up version of holy songs jaunted up our spirit as we headed for the Pissu Top (11500 ft). the first drastic climb up the mountains. Though children are not encouraged to take this trip, I saw a small girl walking with her small ‘Chhari’ – a walking stick with a tapering end, mandatory for the route.

The Unrelenting Sardar

 Even a Sardarji was climbing up the tracks with a small baby lugged up on his chest. Devotion can be dogmatic at the times.

Pissu Top

Two hours later we were standing exhausted on the Pishu Top. Pilgrims were posing on the stone where “Welcome to Pisu Top” was written. Most had an aura of victory writ on their face, as if they have conquered K2. Again sprightly volunteers cajoled us for tea and snacks. This time we obliged them with all our hearts, nay our famished stomachs.

Seshnag and birth of river Lidder

An hour of rest then the journey restarted. Our destination is Sheshnag, a mountain lake at 11730 ft. We walked 4 km to Jojibal and then climbed 5km up to reach Sheshnag the origin of river Lidder. The sea green lake is fed by the ice cold water from the mountain which hovered upon the lake as if trying to look after its well being forever. A thin crust of ice formed near the banks. We soon hired a private tent and arranged our bed- a coir cot with a couple of blankets. The journey was tiring. We swathed ourselves with jackets and mufflers before coming out for an early dinner at the Langar. Here at Kashmir, the sun sets at 8 pm. So there was enough light. Suddenly we saw a covered dead body strapped to a stretcher, being brought down by the potters.

“Babu, a team of lawyers of Andhra Pradesh went up today. One succumbed to the unrelenting steepness of Mahagunas (14500 ft). His heart just stopped beating”, said one of them. The entire team cancelled the journey and went down today. I felt sad. “How can God be so merciless to his pilgrims?” I asked myself. “Or was it his own way to reliving his devotee of the Maya of this mundane world?” I searched for the answer in the evening sky.

 I couldn’t eat much after the shock and soon headed for my temporary shelter. Exhaustion got the better of us with minutes and we went deep into sleep.

Next morning our journey was delayed due to rains. A middle aged couple was accompanied with their kids. The husband enthused us to venture in the drizzle, which we did.  But later the deteriorating weather brought us to reason. We headed back to our tent.

On the way to Panjtarni, we crossed this river

We were supposed to reach Panjtarani (12729 ft) 11 km away, but had to settle at Poshpatri (1400 ft) 1.6 km away in an army camp. But climbing Mahagunas top and then negotiating a glacier at Rabbal took its toll on my health. Much above tree line, scare oxygen had increased my heart rate and I was having nausea. Instinctively, I headed for the medical camp leaving my luggage to my fried. The doctor instantly put me on oxygen and gave a shot in my arm to bring me back to normal. Strangely, he also was putting on the oxygen musk himself in between giving me and other patients. “Breathless is the order of the day, here”, he smiled.

Panjtarani is a valley lush green, fed by the river. Choppers that we saw from Pahelgam were landing here. The pilgrims were taking ponies from here to reach the Holy Cave (13500 ft), 10 Km away. We lost no time here, since rain had delayed our schedule. We headed for Sangam (11808 ft) and crossed the Amravati River below the cave and booked our next tent for the night. After a brief rest we headed for the Darshan. The steps of the cave were cold and they pinched our naked feet. We were relieved of our mobiles and cameras by the CRPF below, for security reasons. As we entered the cave, to our right we saw iron railings. We climbed further and again to right hand corner we saw the Shivling.

On the way to the holy cave 

“Jay Bholey!, Jay Amarnathji ki Jay!” were chanted everywhere. The end of arduous journey to the cave was no more arduous. The pains vanished. The inner self seemed connected to the holy ambience.  This is the place where Swami Vivekananda and Sister Nivedita visited. This is where Swamiji got the sight of Lord Amarnath while he was sitting outside of the cave after taking a bath in the Amravati and paying homage to Lord Shiva. Sister Nivedita was right in a book-Notes of some wanderings with the Swami Vivekananda- where she wrote that the beauty of the route was comparable to that of Switzerland and Norway.

“Kabutar Dekha” asked a Sadhu. I heard that when Lord Shiva was telling a story of immortality to Goddess Parvati, two pigeons listened from their chubby hole. Locals say these pigeons still visit the cave shrine.

Next day we came down from the Baltal route crossing a glacier at Barari. The route was stiff and utmost caution was needed for the decent. All along, we saw choppers giving sorties from Panjtarani to Baltal, from where one can take a car back to Srinagar or Jammu.

When we came down to Baltal the pristine valley welcomed us with the greens. Our car came down to the national highway leaving the mountains where Lord Amarnath will remain for the rest of the year without a soul around.