GIVING TIME A BREAK
amitava chaktabarty
The Church Of sacred Heart Of Jesus,
(courtesy:- http://www.virtourist.com/asia/india/pondicherry/index.html)
ANYBODY who has visited Pondicherry must have felt the eerie sense of
tranquility in the air. Everything over there is replete with a sense of
uncanny silence where the heart and mind can find solace. Probably because of
the presence of the ashram and its disciplined devotees, who roam about with
minimum interaction among themselves or the visitors, who automatically
inculcate within them the discipline of the ashram that make the French Rivera
of the East so calm and divine.
It is said that the great saint Agastha had his ashram
over here. Probably it is for this reason and for the fact that this hamlet was
immuned from the clutches of the British, that Rishi Aurobindo decided to
establish his ashram over here. The British was still suspicious about his
antecedents and considered him to be one of their principal adversaries though
he was acquitted in the famous Alipore Bomb Case. He had no other options but
to leave Bengal and settle in a French colony
far off, to pursue the newly found divinity deep within him while he was in the
lonely cell of the Alipore Central Jail between 1908 and1909. On 4 April 1910,
he landed in Pondicherry
for the first time and after years
of Sadhana in internal Yoga he decided to set up his own ashram with only 24
disciples on 24 November 1926. Today, the ashram has become a gigantic
institution disseminating the idea of higher spiritual consciousness for
oneself and the community.
I happened to be in Puducherry (as Pondicherry is officially called now) a
decade back and visited it recently for the second time and hardly saw
any change in the ambience except a few more devotees and tourists. The same
colonial heritage buildings, the same clean roads or rues, as they call in
French, the same unhurried pace of the people, the same giant doors on walls
decorated with bougainvillea, the same noisy surrender of waves of the Bay of
Bengal on the rocky beach, all conspiring together to “give time a break”. In a few days
Puducherry can take you in her ambit to lull your false ego and rejuvenate your
battered soul. If you are willing for some meditation near the Samadhi Sthal,
where the mortal remains of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother is kept within the
precincts of the ashram, you can even feel the magic of the soothing ambience
creep into you.
The second visit gave me a strange sense of bliss,
though the scorching summer sun was unrelenting. I stayed in the park
guesthouse, which has a beautiful garden full of soft, carpet-like grass, ready
to welcome your bare feet with its morning dew. I used to sit in a corner for a
lonely recluse trying to reach out for my inner-self, which has been brutally
subjugated by the urban world around me. After three consecutive days of this
lonely practice I felt somewhat relived internally and was convinced to have
added some spirituality in my consciousness. I was eager to stay for a few days
more but compulsions back home barred my wish of continuing with this newfound
rendezvous with myself.
Time’s break was over for
me. But before leaving Pondicherry
I made it a point to visit the famous churches. So I visited the Church of the
Sacred Heart of Jesus, and was awestruck by the beautiful Gothic architecture.
The gigantic columns holding the cross shaped arches, the fabulous inscriptions
in the glass panes, the twin tower belfry, the sheen of the interior… all made
me astounded. Amid that gigantism I came across a fragile lady clad in a
tattered violet sari touching the illuminated glass pane, which had mother Mary
etched upon it. Tears were rolling down her cheeks, I knew not for what. I
couldn’t decipher whether she wanted something or was only there for the sake
of faith. Then from the knot of the anchal of her sari she brought out a
fifty-rupee note — must be her entire day’s earning — pressed her lips upon it,
then worked her skinny hand up the glass so that it reached Mother Mary’s feet
before dropping it in the drop-box.
I realised that to attain such level of devotion one had
to grow up in the atmosphere, which Pondicherry
offers. Personally, I have miles to go before I reach such level of
selflessness.
(was published in Strange & Sublime "The Statesman")
My first visit was as an eighteen year old college girl. How I would love to visit Pondicherry again.
ReplyDeleteThe same noisy surrender of waves of the Bay of Bengal on the rocky beach, all conspiring together to “give time a break”. This line stood out.
A beautifully written travelogue, was expecting more pictures.
Thanks Purba.
ReplyDeleteWell, I didn't have a digital then :(